Lamu, Kenya - Day 145 - Boots on the Loose

Getting into Nairobi from Addis turned out to be a tremendously easy day of travel, contrary to what I expected – no need to show vaccination cards, or proof of exiting at the airport like we were told we’d need to show. Just hand the man $50USD and you’re in (I’d also like to point out that in the first 5 months of travelling, this was the first time I was actually REQUIRED to pay for something in USD, contrary to what a lot of people were telling us). Were unexpectedly met out front of the airport by someone from the campsite, holding a sign with Jen’s name on it. Couldn’t be any easier!

Kenya defiintely has more money than we were used to seeing in Ethiopia: cars are nice again (although they drive on the wrong side of the road… back to the Australia rules of looking both ways before I cross each individual lane), roads are great, buildings are modern (ish… Nairobi kinda reminds me of a big version of Edmonton in 1980); it’s amazing to see in all this wealth the number of poor people there still are (not Ethiopian begging for money poor… just working too hard for very little poor). Jen and I were discussing this and figure this divide is the reason there’s so much violence in Kenya.

Nairobi is slightly below the equator but similar to Addis is high in elevation so a relatively mild climate; Mombassa would turn out to be a much different story though. Anyway, campsite was nice: Alissa stayed in a dorm, Jen and I rented a cabin, good bar, movies, pool table, etc. Everyone talks about how dangerous Nairobi is so I was fairly apprehensive about walking around too much at first; but then the campsite guy said it’s no problem at all walking the 15 minute jaunt into town, so off Alissa and I went, and as I would have imagined nothing felt unsafe at all. Turned out Jamie, Aaron and Dina walked through downtown as well as a park without problems so it seems to be an issue of going alone or at night.

Got to the train station around 6pm for the night train to Mombassa which everyone told us was not to be missed. Found out the tracks were broken just east of Nairobi so we had to spend about 2 1/2 hours on a bus out to some town where the train was waiting for us (felt like we were 1/2 way to Mombassa by the time we got there and that there was hardly even a point). About an hour into the bus ride caught our first glimpse of a couple giraffes running across the road and into the grassy forest, under the fullmoon’s light. Someone later told us the reason everyone dangerously drives around at night with headlights off is to avoid giraffes stepping on the road and stopping (similar to a deer I guess); I suppose there’s a hint of logic behind that?

Train ride was good and I’d recommend it, but was definitely built up a bit much for me. Seems to be kind of stuck in time around the 1950’s or so which I think is why people like it. Chef walks up and down the train playing a xylophone when meals are ready (happened to be around 11:30pm since we were so late); went to the dinner car and ate with a guy that would turn out to be our driver later that night! Very nice man.

Pulled into Mombassa around noon the next day which is on the south of the coast of Kenya. Between 8am when we awoke and noon when we arrived, it felt like someone had the train on preheat to throw a cake in for lunch. Mombassa was the hottest, most humid place I’ve been since Singapore and I haven’t stopped sweating since this moment.

Shared a cab with 2 girls through Mombassa, across the ferry and out to Tiwi Beach. I swear waiting for the ferry it was close to 40C with 99% humidity. Got to the beach and met up with Aaron, Dina and Jamie; Dina looking lovely, Aaron looking… splotchy. Sure great to see some familiar faces!!

Beach was nice with some downfalls; water’s barely refreshing at around 30C or more (which personally I think is a pro), white sand of course but has a creepy seaweed problem (makes me feel like something’s grabbing my ankle like in the garbage compactor on the Death Star). Monkeys all over the place that have the brightest, bluest balls I’ve ever seen; monkey’s come right up to you which is neat to see until they break into your room and steal all your food (happened to Jamie, Aaron and Dina before we got there). You pretty much can’t leave the resort; apparently you get mugged if you walk up the dirt road to the highway, and you’re not really supposed to walk too far down the beach either. Quite a shame – girls really didn’t seem to like this; I wasn’t planning on walking more than a combined distance of 100ft that day anyway, but it does make you feel a little trapped.

So the decision was made to leave the next day for Lamu (island 7 hours north); I really wanted 1 more day on Tiwi but Jamie and them had already been there 5 days so I was outnumbered. Ah well. Hopped in the cab around 5:30am the next day to try for the first ferry back to Mombassa. Bus to Lamu left around 8am; bus was notably better than in Ethiopia, road started out great but after a couple hours went to shit. Was quite surprised how remote Lamu turned out to be. Thankfully people in Kenya don’t have the same fear of wind that the Ethiopians have so it wasn’t too hot on the bus, but I did have an inch of dirt on me when we finally arrived.

If there could only be 1 person to contract Malaria in this crew, it would be the person who said it was one of the worst bus rides they’ve been on because they felt so sick, and the same person who’s lying in bed downstairs right now with Malaria. Poor old Jamie. Went to the doctor last night when we arrived as his symptoms seemed suspect, and sure enough. Of course the only person to take his medication exactly how it’s supposed to be taken. Anyway, he got some pills that are supposed to make him feel better by today; he was up walking around town this morning so I think he’s doing alright.

Got to the ferry around 4pm, boat takes maybe a 1/2 hour, checked a couple hotels, then came to see a house a local was telling us about. Sure glad we did. Around $12/night each, 3 stories tall, kitchen, 2 bathrooms, etc, nice and open all throughout (as in few full walls at all, not even to the outside (only half walls)), with a bit of a view of the water even. Really nice spot.

Lamu seems like a really cool place; it’s very safe, you can walk around at night, reminds me of walking through Venice a bit with it’s skinny, twisted walkways, and there are no cars on the island at all!! Donkey’s only. Does mean the beach is a 1/2 our away though on foot (or a $9 boat ride).

When we were putting on our bags back in Mombassa I strained a little something in my back; no big deal, happens from time to time. When I got out of the shower the next morning however, out of nowhere my back started seizing up and I leterally could not get off the couch for a full day and a half, and are still feeling pain from it. I couldn’t believe how painful it was; I’ve never experienced anything quite like it. At least Jamie had a housemate, but there went 2 days in paradise for me.

When I did finally make it out for a walk in the stinking heat, the thing I noted most was how friendly everyone was. No one walks by without saying “Jambo” (hello) and few seem to want your money. On the 3rd night, got around to going out for some drinks with Aaron and Dina finally; felt a little bad because all we talked about was how great the nightlife was in Ethiopia, but until this point in Kenya everyone seemed too tired to stay awake past 10pm.

Next day we finally made it out to the beach; Jen and I made the decision to stay back on Lamu for a few extra days while the others go do a Safari (we’re planning on doing one in Tanzania instead) and since the beach area is so nice, we decided to spend some extra cash and stay at the beach instead.

The electricity on Lamu is quite funny (as in, 50-50 it’s gonna work… except during the day when you don’t really need it). Seems the entire island is powered by a central generator, and I think maybe they have a rolling blackout system? Not a day went by where part of the town wasn’t pitch black. Must be fun to own a restaurant.

And the next morning Aaron and Alissa took off early for the 2-day trip back to Nairobi on land; Jamie and Dina left in the afternoon for the 2-hour flight. Jen and I headed for Shella Beach. Beach was… quiet. Only 3 restaurants, no bars, no internet, not much of anything. Perfect. Sun is so hot you don’t dare go to the beach mid-day (well, we gave it a go 1 day and left with a nice burn). Didn’t do a lot except play games, eat, drink, and lie in the sun. 3 quick days in paradise.

Since we planned on meeting up with the rest of the crew after their Safari, Jen and I splurged (again) on a flight back to Nairobi to avoid 2 days of transit on land (rather spend the days on the beach!) Lamu would definitely be up there on the list of places I’d like to return to one day.