Kisumu is Kenya’s 3rd largest city and sits on the northshore of Lake Victoria. The ride there was horrific, to put it lightly. Were supposed to get a big bus, but it never turned up from Nairobi so we crammed into a matatu and bared the roads for a good 6 or more hours (listening to the brake drums get worse and worse). The only positive thing was seeing the acres and acres of tea fields as we neared Kisumu. Quite a sight. Matatu driver took us right to our hotel which was very nice of him.
That night we made friends with a couple locals at the restaurant, Jackie and Gaby who took us out for drinks at the Octopus bar down the road. On the way someone said something to us “muzungus” and Jackie told Alissa to say something back in swahili which apparently translates to: “I’m going to eat you!” Ha ha!!
Next morning Jen and I decided to get ambitous and do a day trip out to the Kakamega forest. On the way, our 14 passenger matatu had 21 people in it for a while. Ridin’ in style. Forest was nice; many houseplants growing naturally, some big, 500 year old trees, saw 3 types of monkeys: red-tailed, blue monkeys, and colobus (sp?), tonnes of birds and butterflies everywhere. It’s actually a rainforest but wasn’t nearly as green and tropical as I expected (or hot and muggy which was nice). Hired a guide for a couple hours which was good because we never would have found the trails otherwise; turned out to be a pleasant, comfortable walk.
Walked back out to the road to find a ride back; no one really told us how so I assumed you just flag down a matatu.. took about 5 – 10 and it was our turn to cram in on top of everyone. On the ride back (around 2 hours) you wouldn’t believe how many people are in the coffin business. It’s pretty weird to see; could be the shittiest little tinroof lean-to shack with this big (or unfortunately small), beautiful coffin in it for sale. Bizarre.
Went back to the same restaurant and ate the same thing because it was so damn good: Tilapia Masala (tilapia is the fish they catch in Lake Victoria, masala is curry). In Africa you have to take in the good stuff when you can find it because it might be a while before the next time. On a related note it’s been 3 weeks since I’ve done laundry, but I hear there are laundry machines in the next town. Niiice.
Was cool seeing Lake Victoria too (the source of the White Nile, so we’ve now been to both). A while back they wisely introduced a plant (to combat mosquitos, I think) that nothing eats so threatened to cover the entire lake; since, they’ve invested millions in trying to get rid of it and apparently it’s helping, but amazing to see how much there is (hard to tell where the lake actually starts). As well they introduced the Nile Perch which has no enemies and has killed almost everything off in the lake (exept the plant and talapi, I suppose). Stoopid humans.
Kakamega tree
Guide in tree roots
Jen & big tree
View point
Kakamega ants