Etosha Park, Namibia - Day 281 - Boots on the Loose

Etosha has been around amazingly since 1907 (ie. 100 years old this year); it’s around 200kms wide by something less tall (maybe 70-80kms??) and a good portion of it (maybe 25%) is nothing but a massive, flat (called the “pan”) made out of limestone. As you approach the pan it looks like you’re driving up to the ocean… apparently a lot of the animals like to sleep in the pan at night so they can see lions and leopards from a distance. The rest of the park is quite similar to the rest of Namibia: flat, brushy, semi-arid desert, interrupted every now and again with some treed areas.

Maybe 20mins into our initial drive across the park came across a group of vehicles watching a male and female lion lying there, not all that far from the road. Beautiful! After about 5 or 10 minutes of watching them the male gets up and can you believe it!!?? Starts mating with the female… what are the chances!! (felt a little strange watching) Another 10 minutes down the road and we stumbled across a (slightly more difficult to see) rhino… some incredibly good luck, but really bad luck because we really didn’t have the time to stick around much to watch.

Before we knew it there was still 100kms to go with about an hour left (speed limit being 60km/h) so it was time to move. Probably would have made it on time except we got stuck waiting a good 20 minutes or so for a herd of elephants to finish dinner and get off the road… the Lodge of course didn’t have our reservation but has over 100 rooms so fortunately had space for us.

Signed up for a 6am game drive the next morning, even though we knew they couldn’t possibly beat what we saw the previous day (figured Shirley and Ray should get to try the full safari experience at least once). …and as expected we did a whole lot of driving around in the freezing cold, without seeing a whole lot of wildlife. Kinda saved face a little at the very end of the 4 hour drive at a watering hole when a herd of elephants came marching through the bush for a drink and wash up. I think that’ll be the last 6am game drive for me – whoever said you see more stuff that early is dead wrong. Perhaps though it changes in summer when temperatures get out of control during the day. Who knows.

I should point out that the park is absolutely full of a type of zebra called the “Burchell’s Zebra” (as well there are a couple types of birds called the “Burchell’s Starlet” and the Burchell’s something else). This type of zebra is only found in Southern Africa and it’s stripes alternate colours between black and brown (as opposed to being only black stripes up in East Africa). Too bad the guy who named it didn’t know how to spell his name properly…

Didn’t do much the rest of the day except hang out at the lodge; walked over to the reptile park that the lodge maintains to take a look at a bunch of nightmare-ish creatures that I’d just assume not know exist (bit like watching a shark documentary from a dinghy). Decided that the one Black Mamba probably wasn’t startled by the other Black Mamba sneaking up on it since it’s also a Black Mamba. Turns out though the Puff Ader is the big danger in these parts since it barely moves (bit like a slug) and when you accidently step on it, it administers enough venom to (according to the photos they have up) turn your leg inside out, if you don’t get help fast? Yikes…

Both nights at the lodge we skipped the $20 buffet dinner that everyone else seems to get (it DOES look good, but it’s a little pricey as I’d never eat $20 worth of food). Funny how irritated the waiters seem to get when you want to order from the menu! Next morning, hung around until around noon before leaving the lodge to head back across the park, and make as much progress towards the coast as possible (this time frame would allow us to drive through in the late afternoon which we seem to have the best luck with). Probably could have stayed one more night at the lodge but $100/night per person is tough to stomach (and it doesn’t get much cheaper anywhere, unless you have a tent).

Made our way to the rest area which is right in the middle of the park to check out the watering hole they have there. If you stay there you can watch the (lit) watering hole at night when cool things like leopards and lions come to drink. Originally we had wanted to stay inside the park (the prices actually aren’t that bad), but when we went to enquire at the office in Windhoek, the question was, “For which month?”. “Ummm… sunday night?”. Yeah, right… Anyway, got to sit and watch a giraffe drink for a bit, which is an amazing feat when you’re 30ft tall. They have to spread their front legs waaay apart to reach the ground. And they’re SO cautious – every little sound and they quickly get back into run away mode. I think it’s because there’s so little water in Etosha and they often have to share the drink along side their enemies (and hope they aren’t hungry as well as thirsty).

Tried to take some different back roads (such as “Rhino Drive”) but that was nothing but a mistake; about 2km before the gates at the end (late… again), came across a female lion sitting right in the middle of the road. As we approached, she turned and limped off to the side – looking quite skinny, with a badly hurt paw, it was obvious her time was almost up. Seemed so sad… funny how the whole time I’d give anything to see the lion catch and eat an entelope, but when it was the other way around… Told the lady about it at the gate and I think she just pretended to not know English so she could go home. Doesn’t the park do anything when this happens? What about the show “Cat Doctor” on Discovery Channel – is it all fake? I guess it’s just nature. The injured lion, being the last animal of the last park of the trip, somehow seemed symbolic of something, although I don’t know what…

Headed south, sun now having set, nearest town being a good 100kms away. Took a turnoff to the Naua Naua Guesthouse; Jen thought the cost was $50/person which was slightly more acceptable. Pulled in, went to reception, discovered the place was run by a… transvestite! Interesting. Albeit a very friendly transvestite, and a very accomodating transvestite when we told “her”we thought it was only $50/person (it was $100 again, plus $20 for dinner… this place is getting expensive!!) Ended up letting us stay in the farmhouse for half price which was really nice, and we splurged on the dinner which was great (plus they had their own lit watering hole as well so we got to watch all sorts of antelopey things come to drink).