Touzeur, Tunisia - Day 51 - Boots on the Loose

Got off the train in Touzeur, took taxi to Residence Karim which turned out to be a GREAT little place to stay; only 25 dinar a night for a double (12.50 each); very well kept with beautiful tiling all around. Right across the street is the palmerie which is HUGE, and they grow all sorts of fruits like dates, bananas, pommegranites (sp), jasmine, etc. Was gonna walk around it, made it past the rodeo of horses and carriages at the front but then got talked into a ride further down the road (started at 8 dinar, but managed to turn it into 20 by the end). Palmerie is divided into lots that are owned and operated by different families; many are surrounded by walls with BIG, beautiful gates at the front. Went to the “Jardin de Paradis” which had an adjoining zoo as well (decently kept, but like any other zoo in the world, conjures up the same feeling of guilt and disgust).

Took us to the source of the oasis afterwards; has a golf course now and told us about how it was taking much of the water and now the palmerie gets neglected. Stupid white men.

Later that day took a 4WD trip out to a couple towns near the Algerian border; first one was called Chebika. Spent an hour or so walking around the oasis which was nestled right at the edge of the Atlas Mountains. Went through Tamerza to Mides (basically an Algerian border town). Sat and admired the beautiful canyon used in a bunch of Star Wars scenes (as well as the English Patient). Ended the tour at a nice waterfall back towards Chebika (oh, and stopped for some pics of the sunset on the desert on the way back). I’m always so enthralled with these types of exotic landscapes… it’s a bit irritating on the tours because you can’t just stop and sit there for an hour and admire it. But unfortunately it’s difficult to get out there any other way.

Had a moment that night back at the Chicha bar – sitting outside surrounded by palm trees, beautiful stars, at an oasis in the desert, playing cards with friends, smoking chicha, no work, no responsibilities. Sometimes it’s easy to lose perspective of it all.

Was joined by a local named Rajai at the bar. Later felt very guilt because he kept trying to talk to us, and all I wanted was for him to leave us alone (following the basic rule that he wanted our money somehow). Anyway, he genuinely did just want to talk (as do a lot of people in this town) and once we were convinced of this we had a lot of fun (he joined us the next night as well and played cards with us). Was good because he spoke about as much English as we speak French…

Next day Jen and I rented bicycles to ride out to the salt flats (called “Chotts”)… or at least try. Somewhere down the line took a wrong turn and ended up going way around the palmerie. Stopped to ask about 1/2 a dozen people where to go, and the only 2 directions they didn’t give were up and down (and most of them warned us of the wild bores that live in the area… obviously I was secretly hoping to see one, but never did).

Alas, after riding most the way back, we found a road that took us way out to at least something that resembled a salt flat (but was mucky underneath so that you could barely walk on it, let alone set a land speed record). Apparently to get to Douz today we will take the causeway across the big salt flat so hopefully that will fulfill my chott desires.

It definitely struck me while out there… completely flat, miles from anywhere, sun beating down. A flat tire could be a REALLY bad thing to have happen (also, had to leave the bikes to walk for a bit which felt strange with no landmarks in sight).

The plan that night was for Jamie and I to experience the pleasures (and pains) of a massage at the Hamam. Turned out to be for ladies when we went (not sure if it was a time of day thing, or a day of the week thing) so we’ll have to leave that mystery unsolved for now. Instead we finished the day with a beer at a nearby hotel (only place we can find it), followed by some yummy roasted chicken and yet another trip to the Chicha bar.